Christopher Hogwood:: Conductor, Musicologist, Keyboard player

A week spent recording Mendelssohn in Munich was a chance to observe the severe disproportion between the large number of beer gardens or food outlets dealing in Bavarian cuisine and the much rarer alternatives. After a deal of asking and hunting, two very recommendable Italian restaurants came to light, both close to the Prinzregent Theater, one completely free of Muzak, the other only lightly affected.

Hippocampus
Mühlbaurstrasse 5 • 81677 München
Tel 089-475855 • Fax 089-47027187
www.hippocampus-restaurant.de

In spite of the worryingly surgical name (but it also describes a type of sea-horse), the atmosphere is quiet and attentive and the food combinations adventurous without being wild. Fine sea food (lobster NOT overpriced for once) and really fresh salads, fresh pasta and sweets which were of a reasonable size and not disastrous for spreading waist-lines. Wine lists well selected and without appalling mark-ups; both Roero and Morellino were to be found, for me a test of a sensible cellar. Absolutely no background music, nor any invasive cooking. Lunch runs until 4 in the afternoon and dinner until 1 in the morning, so post-concert eating is unrushed. Web-site also in English; highly recommended.

If you can’t find a place in Hippocampus (they advise booking although we got a fine table without any prior warning), close by is

La Cucina Trattoria
Neherstrasse 9 • 81675 München
Tel 089-471983 • Fax 089-4709464
www.lacucina-trattoria.de

I was introduced to this restaurant by the flute-player Andras Adorján, and their lunches are very recommendable; house wine is fine, but a larger list exists, and the fact that they serve excellent pizzas doesn’t seem to have compromised the remainder of the menu. Many vegetarian options and a good menu of the day to speed things up. The Muzak only struck up when we were the last people remaining in the dining room! Website also (like so much of Germany) bi-lingual.